Medieval journey into the heart of Tuscany

The bell tower of the Palazzo Pubblico

The Polish writer Zbigniew Herbert, travelling in Italy during his student years, recalls in his book A Barbar in a Garden, an episode while he was visiting the Pinacoteca at Siena. Around noon, he wrote, the guardians were “ringing the bells like crazy, because the clock on the tower of the Palazzo Pubblico was nearing the 12th hour,” which promised, “a dish of steaming spaghetti, a glass of wine and afterwards a nice nap.” The young writer also retreated to one of the nearby eateries. 

Something similar happened to me while I was admiring the fresco by Ambrogio Lorenzetti of his Allegory of Good and Bad Government from 1339 in the Palazzo Pubblico. Again, it was almost noon and one of the guardians walked about, asking visitors to leave, and I dare say, with a little bell in hand. Like Herbert, it was now my turn to cross the Piazza del Campo and settle for a lunch in one of the small trattorias.

Looking at the piazza from my table at an outdoor cafe, I see one of the most harmonious town squares in all of Italy. Laid out like the concave side of a shell, it is ringed on one side by a semi-circle of patrician houses, their brickwork aged in  pink and ochre, while the 13th century town hall, the Palazzo Pubblico, stands opposite. I am tempted to compare the Campo with the Piazza delle Erbe in Verona or with the more spacious Piazza Navona in Rome, but here I am overwhelmed by its sheer beauty. It embodies the very spirit of medieval Italy when the city-states rose and “Man was the measure of all things,” to quote the art historian Lord Clark. 

The Palazzo Pubblico, which overlooks the square, is a fine example of Tuscan secular architecture with its sleek bell tower, called  Torre del Mangia, named after a medieval bell ringer, soaring to a height of 88 metres. When seen from afar, the tower gives the impression as if topped with a white sprouting blossom. Called campanile, Siena’s bell tower is unsurpassed among Italy’s campanili by its sublime elegance. It also stands for civic pride and symbolizes what Italians call campanilismo, a strong communal sentiment, a longing to identify with one’s town and birthplace.           

Siena, situated in the beautiful Tuscan landscape, is also known for its Palio delle Contrade. The palio is a horse race of 13th century origin, taking place twice a year, on July 2 and on August 16. The central setting for this colourful spectacle is the Piazza del Campo. Weeks before the race, bars and trattorias resound with the voices of the Sienese, discussing the outcome of the race. Even the most fervent verbal exchange on soccer, Italy’s favourite sport, cannot match the passions aroused by the palio

As Siena is divided into terzi – districts – the rivalry is enormous. Each one is again divided into streets or parishes, called contrade, of which there are 17. The contrade are competing parties as they are led into the Campo in a great procession. Clad in 15th century costumes, the  participants skilfully wave banners, displaying heraldic figures, such as the eagle, dragon, wolf and goose. The Campo has been covered with sand and the curves most difficult to negotiate are padded with mattresses as the horses thunder over the piazza, cheered on by some 40.000 spectators. 

As much as you might be enchanted by Siena’s beauty, the town had a bloody history. During the Middle Ages Siena harboured many a highway man whose cruelty were known throughout the country and so ferocious that Dante placed one of them, a certain Umberto Aldobrandeschi, into his Divine Comedy

Feuds between Italian city-states were numerous. For Siena it was Florence which was the great enemy when Siena controlled Florence’s access to the sea. In 1260, tensions led to the battle of Montaperti where Florence’s army of some 30,000 men suffered a massive defeat. A nearby river, a contemporary chronist recorded, ran red with blood and vultures circled over the battlefield.   

During decades following, Siena began to flourish as artists and architects endowed the city with their creations. The cathedral, the Duomo, was built and painters left their lasting imprints. The cathedral, counted among art historians as the most outstanding achievement of Gothic architecture in Italy, presides over Siena from the highest point in town. An imposing structure in stunning black and white shapes, it is alone worth the journey. 

The painters of the School of Siena, a movement which lasted until the middle of the 14th century, are a must for lovers of late medieval art. Next to Florence, Siena ranks as the most important art centre in Tuscany. Artists such as Duccio, Sassetta, Simone Martini and the Lorenzetti brothers are prime examples of this creative period. 

Although the palio is a fascinating spectacle in town, it can prove exhausting to the inhabitants and probably takes a similar toll on tourists; first-time visitors might find Siena more agreeable in spring or early autumn when it is bathed in the delightful Tuscan sun, playing on the warm-coloured walls and ancient pavements. 

 

Train connections are available from Florence, 80 kilometres to the north. The nearest airport is at Bologna. Website: www.visititaly.com  for more info and accommodations.