Susur Lee and Moishe Brown make an unlikely pair. 

Lee, the Hong Kong-born, Toronto-based celebrity chef known for his near empire of trendy restaurants and repertory of television appearances, is, at 57, statuesque and polished, practically larger than life.

Brown, 36, the owner of Toronto company Modern Kosher Catering, is soft-spoken and quietly self-possessed, kippah-clad. 

And yet, there seems to exist between them – each the master of his kitchen – an easy understanding and respect.  

Graciously addressing one another only as “chef,” the two convened Jan. 28 at Lee’s chic, Asian fusion restaurant Bent, located on Dundas Street West, to discuss their forthcoming culinary collaboration.  

Together, they’re creating an exclusive line of kosher, Susur Lee-branded food, to be added to Modern Kosher’s existing list of menu options. 

Brown, who attended culinary school in Israel and launched Modern Kosher in 2013, has made it his mission to enliven, and inject elements of contemporary food culture, into traditional kosher fare. 

He typically caters events like bar/bat mitzvahs, weddings and baby namings, and, though based out of the kitchen at Adath Israel Congregation, he’ll also cater at other synagogues or venues. 

“I’ve moved away from just doing the kugels and gefilte fishes,” he said, “introducing new ingredients…importing stuff from Israel or the United States…trying different fusions.”

Brown sees this latest venture – which came about roughly six months ago when a member of Adath Israel met Lee at a local sports club and decided to connect the two chefs – as an obvious boon. 

Since first promoting the collaboration on Facebook two weeks ago, he said his bookings have increased.

“For the last so many years, I’ve been finding that a lot of wedding parties want to go to outside venues instead of shuls,” Brown said. “I’ve already met with three different young couples whose parents haven’t been to any of Lee’s restaurants, but they have, and they’re really excited [to have his food at their weddings]. The younger demographic is very difficult to attract, so [this venture] is already proving its point.”

The menu they’re co-developing will meld Lee’s brand of Asian fusion with both traditional eastern European and Mediterranean-style kosher foods. 

For example, they spoke of exploring Asian variations on braised meat (brisket), and dishes like crispy duck with wild blueberry preserve, sashimi with citrus sauce and latkes with caramelized onions and mustard seeds.

“We want to lighten up the eastern European style of food, which can be quite heavy,” Brown said. 

Lee, whose experience making “Jewish” food consists of a Jewish National Fund-sponsored culinary tour to Israel nearly a decade ago, has fully embraced the challenge of cooking within kashrut’s guidelines; he and Brown have been meeting regularly to brainstorm menus and review regulations. 

“I like this slow engagement we’ve had, my getting to know the cultural background,” Lee mused. “I think working within specific limitations and making the food taste amazing – that’s the challenge. Making kosher food is so specific, and I like specific things.”

His stint in Israel was enough to pique his interest in Jewish food. “I felt really connected when I went there,” Lee recalled, “and saw all the variety of fish, breads, the best Lebanese foods, shakshuka – I had the best shakshuka – I felt people there are really passionate.”

He grinned, adding, “I did make one mistake there. I was making chickpeas and…I picked up the wrong bucket to add water to them and all of a sudden, I see this rabbi running over yelling, ‘You’re killing my people!’ I was like, ‘Holy shit, this is really serious.’” 

“We’ve been swapping mashgiach stories,” Brown chuckled.

Lee was quick to note that Asian cooking is also not without limitations, given that Asian chefs often forgo the use of dairy.  

Of course, Lee’s interest in kashrut doesn’t stem purely from curiosity; he explained that a large number of his restaurant clientele, particularly at his downtown Toronto Chinese restaurant Luckee, are Jewish. 

“I have a lot of really good connections with Jewish people,” he said. “There’s so many opportunities to explore, be creative and think outside the box [with Jewish food].”

Brown and Lee will launch the line March 12, when they’ll co-host a sample dinner at Adath Israel for press and select members of the community.  

In addition to expanding his customer base, Brown believes his existing clients will welcome the innovation.

“In terms of the future of the palate of the Jewish people of Toronto,” he said, “I think they will appreciate this lightening up of kosher food.”