Unlike Rosh Hashanah, Sukkot, the weeklong festival beginning at sundown Sept. 27, actually is mentioned in the Torah (Leviticus 23:34-39). Immediately following the fast of Yom Kippur, Jews the world over begin constructing sukkot (booths) in preparation for the joyous feast that begins four days later. How our forefathers must have rejoiced to enjoy the fruits of their labours, closer to the heavens, as the growing season culminated in bushels of plenty.

Jewish cuisine, at least in the Mediterranean, has had a long love affair with vegetables, and what better way to celebrate this thanksgiving of the harvest than with a trip to your local farmers’ market.  

Today I accompany Amelia Saltsman – writer, cooking teacher and author of The Santa Monica Farmers’ Market Cookbook (Blenheim Press) on a stroll through the market. But there are frequent interruptions, because this is the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market, and Saltsman is the undisputed queen of this market and instantly recognized by farmers and shoppers alike.

Every grower greets Saltsman, who has immortalized them in her cookbook, which is a homage to the farmers, and a collection of fuss-less, original and artful recipes inspired by the amazing varieties they produce.

Now Saltsman has combined her expertise on all things growing and her love of her Jewish heritage in her new cookbook, The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen (Sterling Epicure), with recipes from both her Romanian mother’s and her Iraqi father’s families, and seasonal spins on such favourites as Roast Chicken with Tangerines, Green Olives and Silan; Marinated Chickpea Salad with Tahini and Lemon Sauce; Golden Borscht with Buttermilk and Ginger;  and Apple, Pear and Concord Grape Galette in Rye Pastry.

Persimmon, pomegranate and pecan salad

Source: The Santa Monica Farmers’ Market Cookbook by Amelia Saltsman

o 1 pomegranate

o 4 ribs celery, preferably inner, whiter ribs with leaves

o 2 small or 1 large persimmon

o 1/2 cup pecan or walnut pieces, toasted

o 1/2 lb. mixed baby salad greens

o about 1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil or nut oil

o 1 lemon

o kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

o 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese (optional)

To remove pomegranate kernels, make a cut near blossom end of fruit, submerge pomegranate in bowl of water, and break fruit into large pieces. Use your fingers to loosen kernels, then drain and reserve. They will keep refrigerated up to 3 days.

Use vegetable peeler to peel celery, then slice paper-thin on diagonal. Place in salad bowl along with leaves. 

Core persimmon, cut vertically into quarters, then crosswise into thin slices. Add to bowl along with nuts, greens and as many pomegranate kernels as you like. 

Grate zest from lemon in long, thin strands into bowl. Drizzle on oil, squeeze in lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Toss well and sprinkle with cheese, if using. Yield: 8 servings.

Gvetch: roasted Romanian ratatouille

Source: The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen by Amelia Saltsman

o 2 lb. fleshy sauce tomatoes such as Roma

o 4-6 medium-size green or white zucchini (about 1-1/2 lb.)

o 2 medium eggplants (about 1-1/2 lb. total)

o 3 or 4 sweet red peppers

o 1 or 2 onions, peeled

o 6-8 large garlic cloves, peeled

o 1 tbsp. sweet or hot paprika, or a mix

o 1/4 tsp. ground cumin

o 2 bay leaves

o 3-4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

o about 2 tsp. kosher or sea salt 

o freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 400. Roughly chop tomatoes, zucchini, eggplants, sweet peppers and onions into about 1-in. pieces. Transfer vegetables to large roasting pan with garlic, paprika, cumin, bay leaves, olive oil and several grinds of pepper. Toss to mix; spread evenly. Roast without stirring until vegetables are very tender and browned in places and tomatoes have melted into a thick sauce, about 1 hour. Serve warm or at room temperature.